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Shipping is calculated by size and weight in the check out section when you enter your address. Shipping starts from approx $9.50 and is in addition to the product prices shown. NOTE: You will need to create an account for payments to go through properly

We ship once a week or more depending on the workload in our custom car fabrication workshop. We are a small operation building cars as well as selling parts. Car builds take priority, we usually ship mid week and end of week.
Engine Swaps and Engine Conversions V8, V6, straight six, 4 cyl
High quality engine swaps, fully engineered, priced from;
$4,500.00
Qty
Product Description

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Make sure you read the following before calling us.


Engine conversions need careful consideration given to clearances, engine accessories, steering and exhaust. The only way to go, is to do it properly and put in the time. Gone are the days of just hacking away at the firewall, sub-frame and floor to make the engine fit. All engine swaps need to be properly engineered to maintain street registration and require an engineers report for the work done. Kustom Bitz uses an independent engineer to ensure our work qualifies with state registration standards when necessary.

Kustom Bitz can do as little or as much as you want. From the complete engine conversion, including alternator and power steering pump bracket modifications and new fabrication, through to custom headers, wiring, ECU, Fuel system and exhaust modifications.

We mainly do Hot Rod engine conversions, Kustoms, custom cars, family sedans, muscle cars, daily drivers and pick up trucks of the pre-emissions compliant type of vehicle, so pre 1980s or there abouts depending on the model. 

We are not set up to do late model 4x4s of any kind.  In fact all late model cars post 1990s that have to meet strict emissions and noise level ADRs, there is much expense in making them compliant for full rego that the average punter cant justify the expense. Most enquiries revolve around an expensive quote to repair the car you already have and think it would be easier or money better spent to convert it to a Chevy LS engine.  In most cases you will spend two to three times what the car is worth to do the conversion in a compliant way, so you need to be keen and have really deep pockets.

What ever your passion is, if you are keen and well funded then the sky is the limit.

A typical basic engine conversion using your engine supplied and just doing some basic fabrication and set up work starts from around $2500. Yet most daily driver pre-pollution model applications have been closer to $6000 to $8000 by the time we get the engine accessories and exhaust spliced in etc. ready to drive away.  It all depends on how you deliver the car and engine to us and what homework you have done to see if it is even feasible. Kustom Bitz charges for all planning and research work plus the time it takes to do the job, so make sure your ideas have a sound basis and the probability of working in the first place before you contact us. The costs can easily blow out on the more difficult jobs or really tight engine bays.  If firewall and or floor pan alterations are needed then costs can escalate quickly.

EFI applications can run into quite a lot more than that indicated above because there is just so much more time and parts that gets buried into it over the long run to make it work reliably so be prepared to work at it, if that’s what you really want. It is quite easy for a modern engine swap involving ECU, wiring and fuel system changes to run into 20 to 30k +.  Then there is the additional cost of the engine, trans, tailshaft, brake upgrade, diff etc. and does it need rebuilding or replacing etc. So if that's scaring you, or you thought you would get out of it for under 10k, you might have to save a bit longer or it will take a lot longer to throw enough funds at it.

If all of the above has not scared you off, or dampened your enthusiasm, then you probably have the tenacity to see it through and we should talk.

All engine conversions are done at an hourly rate + parts + materials, no exceptions.

Questions and Answers.

Q: Can you make me some engine mounts to install a "xxx engine" into my "xxx model" car or pick up.
A: I would need the car and the engine obviously to do that. Alternatively if you can provide detailed engineering drawings yes I can fabricate anything.

Q: Do you do engine conversion kits?
A: No, I perform fabricate and install jobs. 

Q: I have purchased an engine conversion kit from another supplier and I am over it, out of my depth etc. can you do it for me?
A: Yes. As long as it is not a Commodore or a four wheel drive.

Q: Can you convert my 6 cylinder Commodore to a V8.
A: No, we do not work on Commodores.

Q: I want to convert my four wheel drive [Jeep, Landcruiser, Nissan Patrol, Hilux, what ever] to an LS engine
A; No, I do not work on 4WD, they are not my thing, I am just not into them.

Q: Do you work on classic and vintage cars
A: Yes. I prefer to work on old vintage and classic cars. From restos' to old speed cars, that is my passion.

Q: I am looking to convert my car to a different engine what do you suggest.
A: Man this is a so open ended question, thats not what I do, I can't be across all model cars and all engine conversion options. What do you want to put in it and why.

Q: Can you put a Barra motor in my "xxx"
A: A barra motor can be put in anything however remember it would be cheaper to buy a Falcon or similar with a Barra already in it if it is just the motor and turbo you want to play around with.  Please read the following two answers for the LS engine as the work load putting a Barra in something else is the same.

Q: Can you put an LS engine in my "xxx"
A: An LS engine can be put in anything however it would be cheaper to buy a Holden, Chevy or similar with an  LS already in it or just rebuild the small block that is already in it.  You will see cheap LS motors or drive lines at the moment, but what you do not see is the time it takes to make it work, the extra parts, the wiring, ECU, fuel system changes and the engineering, debugging, fault finding, emissions tests and making the rest of the car compliant to current ADRs.  It takes deep pockets to see it through for a fully registerable vehicle if you have to pay me or others to do all the work. 

Q: I want to put an LS in it to make the car more reliable.
A: Seriously I fail to see how putting more electronics into an old car will make it more reliable, there is just more to go wrong with it as it ages.  Sure they drive nice from new in a new car that has gone through years of development but expect to go through your own development issues when doing the swap, don't kid yourself on this one, I have heard a few people mutter I should have just rebuilt the old engine it would have been much cheaper and simpler in the long run.
 
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Kustom Bitz news

EV conversion 1955 MG ZA Magnette by Kustom Bitz

by kustombitz on 04 Jul 2024
Kustom Bitz is doing an EV conversion on this 1955 MG ZA Magnette.  The job is a complete restoration and driveline conversion, it doen't look much at the moment but we have been pulling it apart to completely strip the paint for a full rotiserie restoration on the body.  The sills need replacing and the rear guards need some rust repairs but apart from that the body is mint. You can follow the restoration on https://www.facebook.com/MGEVMagnette We will be installing an air cooled Hyper9 AC motor and controller with two LFP battery packs, one in the boot and one in the front engine bay. The electric motor will sit in the gearbox tunnel with a Torque Trends USA Long tail housing reduction box, with integral park lock, like an auto trans has. The base EV technology that is going into this car has been around since the 1990s and I have been selecting, repairing and working on IGBT drive technolgy in the automation industry since that time, so combining my restoration skills and EV technology make sense to me. Intended as a city run around it should be a pretty stout combination as the Hyper9 puts out a similar torque to a stock 289 Windsor but from zero rpm all the way up. Rated at approx 200hp. The body is light weight at just on 1080kg stock, weight gets pulled out, engine and gear box [all cast iron], and the batteries is similar in weight so ends up around the same once finished.

41 Willys at Sydney Hot Rod Show 2024

by kustombitz on 04 Jul 2024
41 Willys coupe on display at the Sydney Hot Rod show, all bare steel body with a Kustom Bitz gasser modified chassis under it.

8:71 Supercharger install on 454ci powered '55 Chevy

by kustombitz on 30 May 2022
You would think a supercharger kit install would be pretty simple .... well no, is the short answer. A wise man once told me a 'kit' is not a solution.  And having worked on a few of these set ups now these words keep ringing in my head and I remember this old man who at the time I didn't think was that wise at all .... now I am older and I see.   In this install I had to port match the heads to the intake as there was a substantial lip into the head port because of the large intake manifold ports. If not corrected would have led to fuel puddling and fouled plugs and drivability problems that would have been hard to diagnose once assembled.  Also the distributor hole at the back of the manifold was off centre and way too big for a standard chevy dizzy and any aftermarket dizzy too. So I had to make a boss to take up the slack and provide a stable boss for the dizzy clamp to work properly.   To add to the woes, the engine assembler failed to pick up that it was a tall deck block and required a longer oil pump drive shaft .... that was hard to diagnose when a new engine loses oil pressure for no reason.   I got there in the end with modded accelerator links, better fuel line route, boost referenced carburettors and a proper harmonic balancer for a blower application.  The install was challenging on this one but the end result was a sweet running engine with monster amounts of torque to hall this heavy full size sedan around the hills .... and cool looks of course.  

41 Willys Coupe Gasser Chassis

by kustombitz on 30 May 2022
41 Willy Coupe chassis fabricated to original dimensions yet extra strength provided in the depth of the chassis and via tubular centre X member and many tubular cross members to take the weight and torque of a big block Ford drive line.  This chassis will have an original steel body fitted to it and the owner wants the whole car to resemble an early 60s drag car, right down to the rear radius rods that look like ladder bars, however it has to have nice street manners and pass ASRF construction guidelines for safe street rod engineering.  Now many may argue a leaf sprung front end and rear end is not the best handling street car and I would agree, but there are always trade offs for the look you want and the right combination of parts installed with the correct geometry can still yield a very nice driver with a really cool look.  When driven responsibly this 41 Willys will provide hours of enjoyment for the owner cruising around.   Chassis by Kustom Bitz [our custom designed rails], Engine Ford Hemi V8, T400 auto, 9" diff installed on leaf springs with diff housing floaters designed by Kustom Bitz for street use [so we have flexibility and suspension give], Super Bell front I beam with disc brakes cleverly mounted to parallel leaf springs without any mods to I beam and not relying on welded parts.   See our section on Hot Rod Chassis construction for more images of our various Willys Coupe chassis that Kustom Bitz has built.  

'67 Toyota Crown Ute - another air ride bagged project

by kustombitz on 01 Apr 2021
The Toyota Crown ute is progressing along, the body is fitting the modified original chassis and this is how it will look when it's dropped ... I think it has the right stance ... The framing you can see is holding the upper body together as the floor and lower sections are rusted away and have been cut out, then to be completely refabbed by us.  The frame allows us to lift the body on and off as we please during this stage.

1940 Ford Coupe chassis BBC 454 L80E 9" and air ride

by kustombitz on 01 Apr 2021
Kustom Bitz just completed a 35-41 chassis, stepped up at the rear and a reversed centre X member allow this chassis to sit 40mm off the deck. It runs a Rod Tech IFS, big block chevy and L80E auto, a 9 inch diff with floating hubs, all on modified original rails. Kustom Bitz has developed our own boxing plates that suit the original rails near on perfectly. Original Ford rails are curved from front to back there are no straight sections, so to get something that fits right we had to jig the chassis up and map them out.  This is what we do, when it just needs to be done right to make it a well engineered car.  This allowed us to make a nice transistion for a high step at the rear. We have designed in 6 inches of travel at the back, so this car can have a normal, almost stock ride height then dumped to the max when parked.

LS Engine swap and custom air bag IFS

by kustombitz on 19 Feb 2020
'67 Toyota Crown ute chassis build is going well. Got the LS engine and 6 speed manual box in place and we can use all the orginal serpentine pulleys, brackets etc. The narrow wheel track on the Toyota called for a tailored solution when it came to the front end.  These old Toyotas dont have service parts available any more so the front end had to be changed, so that made a brake upgrade alot easier too. We run R6 air bags from Air Ride sitting at a ride height of 6" for the air bag so got plenty of air volume in them for a good ride quality and a full length travel shock absorber so we get proper rebound tuning, along with a power steering rack.  So at the sill [belly of the car] we get a 5" ride hieght with a 4 inch drop, this thing will look great.

Double shear brackets - rear coil overs Hot Rod Chassis

by kustombitz on 30 May 2019
Recently in Victoria some engineers have called for the upper and lower mounts for the rear coil over shockers to be a double shear bracket.  The thoery is that the bolt has too much twisting force on it and it will break. Well thats why on Hot Rods we use a 5/8" grade 8 bolt in a single shear bracket application to over engineer it so it does not break. A typical OEM application uses a 1/2" bolt in a double shear bracket. However to please the engineer we have thought out a simple plate kit that can be welded in on the upper mounts as you see here to satisfy their requirements and should fit into most applications without too much effort or rework.  We have a lower mount bracket nutted out as well.

Diff bump stops custom made

by kustombitz on 08 Mar 2019
So many hot rod shops don't install proper bump stops.  In this instance we had to rebuild the shocker mounts on the diff as the rear end was bottoming out on the shocker travel becasue it had no properly designed bump stops in place. So the shock absorber mounting bracket was absorbing every bump when the suspension bottomed out, easy to see why both mounts broke. While we were repairing the diff I made a simple yet effective progressive bump stop that is held in place via the U bolts that hold the diff to the leaf springs. It turned out a very successful set up. This is yet another example how Kustom Bitz can sort out problems on your custom car or hot rod, its what we do.

Torana A9X custom made rear pan hard bar 9" Diff

by kustombitz on 08 Mar 2019
Back in the day Group C racing one of the tricks to get the Holden Torana to handle nice and be more predictable in corners was to fit a rear pan hard bar to give much better diff locating than the OEM triangulated 4 bars offered.  However the body, subframe and floor pan at the rear is no where near strong enoungh to concentrate the loads of pan hard bar in any one spot, so it has to be carefully planned and constructed, especially so in a street car like this that we cannot put a full roll cage in. You see in a race car I can place the roll cage in a position to pick up such loads placed on the pan hard bar brackets, but in this situaton we couldn't. The picture above is with the unit installed, keep in mind the car was just a shell so no weight was in it and the rear is sitting high. Once the full wieght of the car is on, it will sit fairly level.  It retains the original triangulated 4 bars however we run PU bushes in the bottom arms and ordinary rubber in the top arms. So the lower arms and pan hard bar do the locating and the top arms have some give so they don't bind with the pan hard bar.

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